Paat Silk of Assam: A Legacy of Craftsmanship and Heritage
Assam, renowned for its rich cultural heritage, has long been celebrated for its exquisite silk weaving tradition. The state produces three major indigenous silks- Muga, Eri, and Paat (mulberry) each with unique qualities and cultural significance. Among them, Paat silk is particularly esteemed for its fine texture, natural sheen, and durability. Predominantly woven in Sualkuchi, often called the ‘Manchester of the East,’ this centuries-old craft is more than an economic activity it embodies Assamese identity and skilled craftsmanship. Passed down through generations, the weaving process has sustained livelihoods and preserved Assam’s vibrant textile legacy.
Figure - Muga silk threads, 2025, Source- https://www.wikipedia.org/ Date of Accession: 15th Feb 2025
Figure 2- Paat silk threads, 2024, Source- https://www.wikipedia.org/ Date of Accession: 20th Feb 2025
Figure 3- , Eri silk threads, 2025, Source- https://www.wikipedia.org/ Date of Accession: 20th Feb 2025
Historical Evolution and Royal Patronage
Silk weaving in Assam dates back to ancient times, with references in the Arthashastra (4th century BCE) by Kautilya, highlighting the fine silk fabrics of Kamarupa. This recognition underscores its importance in early trade and courtly attire. The craft flourished under the Ahom dynasty (1228–1826 CE), where rulers actively promoted sericulture and weaving, making silk garments an integral part of the royal court and aristocracy. Edward Gait noted that hand-woven silk garments symbolized prestige and were often gifted as tributes. Assamese texts like the Hastividyarnava (17th century) further document the region’s expertise in silk weaving, emphasizing its long-standing cultural significance.
The Craftsmanship of Paat Silk
Paat silk is derived from the Bombyx mori silkworm, which feeds exclusively on mulberry (Morus indica) leaves, giving it a smooth texture and unmatched sheen. Traditionally reeled by rural artisans for domestic use, Paat silk is now recognized beyond Assam. Naturally white or off-white with a golden hue, it is often described as buttery soft. The intricate production process includes silkworm rearing, fiber extraction, spinning, dyeing, and weaving. Weavers use traditional handlooms (taat xaal) to create motifs inspired by nature, folklore, and religious symbols. Recent technological advancements, such as Jacquard looms, have enhanced design intricacy. Women remain the primary custodians of this heritage craft, ensuring its continuity across generations.
Figure 5- Bombyx mori, 2023, Source- https://www.google.com/amp/s/artfulvagabond.com/2023/08/10/bombyx-mori-silk-moth/amp/ date of accession- 22st Feb
Figure 6- Bombyx mori eating mulberry leaves, 2023, Source- https://www.google.com/amp/s/artfulvagabond.com/2023/08/10/bombyx-mori-silk-moth/amp/ date of accession- 21st
Figure 7- , Taat Xaal, 2024, Source- https://nn.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Khadi date of accession- 21st Feb, 2025
Cultural Significance
Paat silk plays a vital role in Assamese festivals, weddings, and religious ceremonies. Traditional attires like Mekhela Sador, riha, sarees, gamusa (a hand-woven cloth) dhotis, and men’s upper garments are woven with Paat silk and adorned with intricate motifs such as japi (conical hat), gos buta (tree motifs), floral designs, birds, and geometric patterns; each reflecting indigenous aesthetics and cultural heritage. Wearing Paat silk is considered a mark of elegance and respect for Assamese traditions, reinforcing its deep-rooted significance in the region’s cultural identity.
Figure 8- Japi design, 2020, Source- https://www.google.com/ date of accession- 21st Feb, 2025
Figure 9- Gamusa made of paat silk, Source- https://www.google.com/ Date of accession- 22nd Feb, 2025
Economic Empowerment and Global Recognition
The handloom industry in Assam sustains thousands of weavers, particularly women, providing economic empowerment and stability. Sualkuchi, the silk-weaving hub, plays a crucial role in production and trade. With the rising global demand for sustainable textiles, Paat silk has gained international recognition. Government initiatives, including the Geographical Indication (GI) tag for Assamese silk and support through programs like the National Handloom Development Program (NHDP) and North Eastern Region Textile Promotion Scheme (NERTPS), have bolstered the industry by providing financial aid and infrastructure development.
Figure 10- Woman using traditional handloom (Taat Xaal), Sualkuchi, 2006, source- https://nn.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Khadi date of accession- 21st Feb, 2025
Challenges and the Path Forward
Despite its cultural and economic significance, the Paat silk industry faces challenges such as declining raw material availability, competition from machine-made fabrics, and shifting consumer preferences. However, the growing demand for sustainable, handcrafted textiles presents an opportunity for revival through innovation, digital marketing, and global outreach.
Conclusion
Paat silk weaving is more than a craft—it is a legacy that embodies Assam’s heritage and identity. Preserving this tradition requires collective efforts from artisans, policymakers, and consumers. As the world embraces sustainable fashion, Paat silk’s timeless appeal ensures that it remains an enduring symbol of Assamese culture for generations to come.
References:
- Baruah, B.K. 1951. A Cultural History of Assam. Vol. 1st. Assam: K.K Baruah. https://archive.org.
- Chakravarty, Preeti, and Keshab Basumatary. 2018. Review of Sualkuchi Village of Assam: The Country of Golden Thread. Journal of Business and Management20 (3): 12–16. iosrjournals.org.
- Gait, E. A. 1906. History of Assam. Calcutta: Thacker, Spink. https://archive.org.
- Das, Priyanka, and Ruma Das. 2022. Review of Sualkuchi: The Manchester of Assam and Its Uncertain Future. IJSDR7 (8). https://ijrti.org/papers/IJRTI2208001.pdf
About the Author:
Author: Tanaya Acharjee
Tanaya Acharjee, with expertise in archaeology and history, specializes in the study of sculptures, landscapes, and cultural heritage. Her work includes archaeological excavations, museum documentation, and research on intangible heritage, adopting a multidisciplinary approach to the past.
