Myths around landscape and oratures as…

Myths around landscape and oratures as trajectories of continuing History in the Champawat district of Uttarakhand.

Since ages, the land of Uttarakhand has an engagement with Nature to advance an exotic model of agency, authority and collectivity in which the politics of the land reveals itself to be ‘an ecological’ process involving the conjoint action of the living, the ancestors and the land. The land expresses itself in folklores, belief-systems, oral-narratives, songs, dances, rituals, fairs, forms of worship and thus Public becomes human-non-human collectivities brought into existence through the conjoint enunciation of the land, the living, and the dead. From the town of Tanakpur situated in the foothills, the valley of Champawat is a 75 km drive meandering into the hills covered with magnificent deodar, oak and rhododendrons that render the forests a bright red colouring during the spring.

The scene as one ascends the hills gets breath-taking with lavish waterfalls, woods with
sunlight in them and clear blue skies. Being 1615 meters, above the sea-level, the place enjoys
moderate to extreme cold weather during winters providing a spectacular view of the Panchachooli ranges from its Maneshwar peak. Champawat had been the former capital of the Chand dynasty rulers of Kumaon Kingdom then called as Champavati, being located on the banks of a river of the
same name. The vision of river as Goddess is a perennial thought in the ancient texts of India. Myths relating to rivers and landscapes have assisted humans to co-habit Nature simultaneously paving the way for philosophical and intellectual associations through imagery and symbols around themselves.

One striking characteristic of Champavati River is that it flows upwards towards the temple of Shiva; that renders an amazing sight nowhere to be seen. A river marching with all might up towards the hill rather than flowing with the slope thus becoming an insignia of mysticism. Here,
one need to cultivate the gaze of a poet; the gaze that is romantic that proceeds from a solitary viewing of nature or objects. “The emphasis here is on solitude, privacy and personal, almost semi-spiritual relationship with the object of the gaze. This kind of ‘communion’ with nature, for instance, is also closely aligned with the development of niche tourism. The romantic gaze is exclusive, privileged and unaffordable to most. Nature tourism or the pilgrimage often necessitates a solitary, contemplative mood’. 

This River, like all other rivers; is a witness to everything – wars, births, and deaths; every piece of history of its land and with time appears to be a symbol of beauty, love and hope. Personification of rivers into women is a popular device in the world of Indian poetics as rivers are well-conceived in the psyche of the Indian populace as vital, feminine energy, symbolizing fertility, nourishment, regeneration and life. Lawrence Buell in his most influential work on Eco criticism, “The Environmental Imagination”, outlines certain broad criteria to assess the eco critical value of a text: “The nonhuman environment is present not merely as a framing device but as a presence that begins to suggest that human history is implicated in natural history” and the ‘sense of the environment as a process rather than as a constant or a given’. The idea of environment as a dynamic process where dimensions interplay is supported by religious doctrines which dispense with a sharp demarcation between the spiritual and material realms. Mircea Eliade noted, how for the homo religious, everything in nature could be the subject of a religious experience. The religious man knows from experience that the world has a sacred centre and lives in the reality of this ‘cosmic sacrality”. According to the Vayu Purana, Champavati was the capital of nine kings of Puri Naga Dynasty. In the valley of Champawat are the seven ancient temples: Baleshwar, Kranteshwar, Tadkeshwar, Rishneshwar, Dikteshwar, Mallareshwar and Maneshwar. According to a local epic titled
Gurupaduka, Champavati, the sister of the Nagas, did penance near the Baleshwar temple of Champawat. In her memory, the temple of Champavati was built inside the Baleshwar temple complex. Built in the 12th century by the Chand rulers, Baleshwar temple dedicated to Shiva is an excellent monument having magnificent architectural designs in stone. Shiva is the magnificent water sculptor as the rivers Saraswati, Ganga, Yamuna, Sarayu and the seven rivers Sapt-Sindhu figure prominently in the Vedic hymns. Symbolically, Ganga descending from Heaven represents liberating consciousness or divine consciousness that flows from the head of a spiritual leader (Shiva) and purifies everyone who comes into contact with it. The rivers are symbolic of human soul which strives to attain the Absolute; while the inhabitants of Egypt consider the absoluteness of corpulent body as their ultimate goal. The Baleshwar temple signifies that Asceticism and energy has a strong role to play in the assertion of myths. What is important is to realise that the temple like the present-day museums, in addition to reconstructing the past for present reasons (religious, political or otherwise) – is an act of nostalgia. The ancient Indian temples are narratives that seek origins. The relics, images, art, artefacts, architecture are suggestive of the past community’s values. “The concept of “darshan” associated with images calls to see for sacredness associated with the image that is a prevalent form of worship in his land. Darshan is not a look of verification, but ‘one that demonstrates its faith by seeing the divinity where only its image exists’. The darshan embodies a relation where the object invites itself to be seen, and thus confers a privileged status on the spectator. The darshan has a specifically religious connotation, where the devotee receives the darshan given by the God on display. History states that the district was named after the princess Champavati, the daughter of King Arjun Deo whose power over the region expanded rapidly; he reunited the whole of Kumaon under one rule and the name Kumaon gradually came to denote the entire region extending from the snow ranges in the north to the tarai in the south. Myth is an embodiment of understanding of a people, an understanding often intuitive and dependent on the miraculous and the divine. But despite these differences Myth and History flow into each- other especially in India where Myth finds continuity in history while history constantly intervenes with the myth. The great epics like the Mahabharata are referred to as Itihasa literally meaning history. Mukund Lath in his essay on Iravati Krve’s Yuganta, “Understanding the Mahabharata,” Indian Literature commenting upon this, points out that
epics are history in an ancient sense and not a modern one. It is cosmic history of an age when men mingled with gods. But situations which are accepted as real, influence the cultures of a people. History in a modern sense also is a recording of events which illustrate an ideological stance, opposition or conflict. Thus, history feeds into myth and contemporary interpretations of myth. The folklores describe the significant presence of the region during Mahabharata period. Barahi temple of Devidhura, Sapteshwar temple of Sipti, Hidimba-Ghatotkach temple and Tadkeshwar temple of Champawat town are believed to date back to Mahabharata era. A very unusual fair, which attracts people from Kumaon, Nepal, and even other places, is held every year on the full moon day in the courtyard of Barahi Devi temple in Devidhura. Ecocritics have traced the language of landscape as female, as mother and as goddess through many readings
of literature across cultures. This imagery harkens to the archetypal underpinnings of earth as female. Annette Kolodny writes that such imagery, invoking mother and goddess and even as exotic female, gives the landscape a primal power and explains its ability to incite such religious fervor. Reading the landscapes of the district and the myths and rituals as practiced, it is ascertained that the female deity is the saviour of their land in their belief-system. As the land was terror-struck in some ancient age, the Goddess resurrected and protected it and in order to appease the mighty Goddess a human was sacrificed on this day. Gradually, the form of ritual underwent change and a battle of stones is held which continues till the amount of blood as in a human body is spilled on ground. The participation of each community in the ritual is made assured through customary-binding. The Mahars and Fawarls come in the vicinity of the temple with great gusto carrying dhols, Kangargal umbrella, nagadas known as Chhantoli., the Phularas arrange for flowers in Kot Phulara temple, the Brahmins of Mantande and Dholigaon perform the Puja and the Garhwali Rajputs of Bhainsirgaon used to perform the buffalo-sacrifice. 

The access towards the courtyard is already fixed as the community of Laamgadias enters from the north, Chamyals enter from the South, Walliks enter from the west and Gahadwal come from the east into the plain. The
quality of abstinence and purity of mind and body is observed by all the participants of the Bagwal which when followed strictly can make Maya ineffective with all its illusions upon the mind of men. After taking a pradakshina round the temple, all the four khams exit through the south-west gate of the temple only to assemble in the field where they get split in two groups to begin the “Pashan-Yuddha’ i.e., “the battle of Stones.” The Priest is waited eagerly who comes to announce the start of fight. As the battle is announced, the two parties start hurling stones at each-other, the
sound of drum becomes high and the Bagwalis under the cover of the umbrella attack each-other and try to reach the middle of the field which is the border-line.

A strong defence wall of the furrows is built under the cover of which stones are hurled at the rival group. After the priest is assured that enough of blood is shed, he enters the field carrying a copper-umbrella, blows a conch-shell signalling the end of the ritual. Though the fight happens for a few minutes, the ambience gets thrilled with the show of energy, power, courage and the display of unbelievable faith and devotion. The Folk-Consciousness keeps the communities together instilling in them the consciousness and emotion of togetherness; that their relations are binding and they stand on an equal footing. Watching Bagwal is an experience of a lifetime; those who aren’t a witness to it, can never decipher the mysticism, spiritualism and the power that rituals can exude over lives of men.

Here, we are face-to-face with people capable of injecting care to the extent of sacrifice and meaning into relations with the nonhuman beings and forces due to their heightened receptivity to land and its agencies. To tune in to the voices of the land and the ancestors means to personify and to relate rather than to objectify. Also, the ritual of Bagwal is a reminder of broader interdependencies between social identities and natural processes. 

The Forest appears to have been a site of contestation between the forces of good and evil since ancient times. We never thought what humans mean to the land Gods, plants and animals or how the non human world perceives us.
Bagwal is a glimpse of the synchronicity between land and its people, that we didn’t respond to appropriately.

Every peak, lake or mountain range is somehow or the other connected with some myth or the name of God or Goddess, ranging from those associated with the Shaiva, Shakt and Vaishnava traditions, to local Gods and Goddesses. Besides worshipping the usual Gods and Goddesses associated with popular Hinduism, the people are inclined to worship Kul Devatas,(family Gods), Gram Devatas(Village Gods), Nag Devatas(Snake Gods), Bhumi Devatas(Land Gods)and Veers/ Bhars(the folk heroes). Bholanath, Gwalla, Gangnath, Airy, Kail Bisht, Chaumu, Haru, Saim, Bhumia, Balchan, Nagnath, Bhandari, Golla, Badha, Narsingh, Latu/Lataul, Gabla, Chhurmal. Bagadwal, Mahasu and Pandavas are the important folk Gods of Uttarakhand. Anyari and Ujyali are the popular Goddesses. Garh Devees are to be found in cremation grounds and are worshipped on the night of Amavasya. Although Bafaul, Ramol, sangram Karki and Madho Singh Bhandari are also mentioned as folk-heroes, they are not treated like Folk-God. To tune in to voices of the land and the ancestors means to personify and to relate than to objectify. The practice and rituals associated with nonhumans intertwines the land’s agencies with the agencies of specific ancestors, families and clan genealogies. It heightens receptivity to worlds gathered within a web of personalized relationships between humans and nonhumans.

The Golu Devta is the Folk-God with his temple at Champawat, where a fair is held every year as a mark of respect to the deity. Golu Dev, also known as Gorilor Gollas, the king born in the Katyur dynasty used to travel far distances on his horse to meet people of his kingdom, Golu Darbar used to take place where he would hear the problems of the people and help them in any way possible. The King followed the principles of Brahmacharya and is revered as an incarnation of Gaur Bhairav (Shiva) and is worshipped all over the region. The deity is worshipped as a dispenser of Justice who is believed to ride on his white horse, to go to meet his people and deliver them justice. His court is still held in the form of Jagars. The God of Justice delivers justice to the people by punishing the wrong-doers and also reminds them of the sins that they’ve committed for which they are destined to suffer certain mishaps. The unique temple of Golu Devta has a tradition of writing the wishes, complaints, letter of request for justice in dispute of property, land etc. which are received by the temple. The devotees donate bells to the temple which are tied upon the walls of the temple or in its vicinity when their wishes are fulfilled. Although Lord Shiva’s influence prevailed throughout Kumaon, mainly because of its proximity to the region of PanchKedars and Kailas- Mansarovar, this did not in any way hamper the influence of the local folk Gods and Goddesses. The non-human world has a solid bearing on the humans; it subverts and constructs their lives and livelihoods even to this day.

 

Dr Pallavi Mishra teaches English Literature as Assistant Professor at Govt PG College Doiwala, Dehradun. She is a voracious reader and also writes research-papers regularly for National and International Journals which are more than 20 in number. Her creative writing includes a novel, “Disdain” and a poetry-collection in Hindi.

“I write, as I see and feel the pain and anguish in individual lives around me. I can’t restrain myself to bare them and show you the oozing wounds. Unfortunately, I never found any solutions to those; may be you tear away the wounds or soothe them in their prime if they happen around you.” She writes.

She has researched on the writings of Mahasweta Devi and has published a reference-book entitled,” Mahasweta’s Literary Canvas – A Critical Reading. Her areas of interest include Postcolonial Literature, African Studies, Literature in Translations, Indian Classical Studies, Disability Studies. Her forthcoming book is an edited volume entitled, “The Dynamics of Folklores and Orature in Culture.”